As i´m slowly gettin better the pace at the shop is picking up
With that said.
As this will be a more or less high output motor we´re taking ease of service into consideration.
Altho i´m not a fan of "bling" AN parts can´t really be considered such.
This is the real deal.No el-cheapo rip-off,but true aeroquip stuff.
As the new intake will be very short it would interfere with the OEM oilfilterhousing.
Now,the OEM oilfilterhousing-in contrast to much of the aftermarket crap-contains some desirable features like a thermostat worth its name asf.
Therefore,i opted to mod the stock unit.
This was done by taking it apart completely and ripping the OEM steel liners out of it.
Then i turned a replacement out of aluminium that was interferance fit,turned a lid for it-again aluminium-and welded the whole thing back together with AN12 weldbungs.
Going to keep the AN stuff as a nomer on this motor,and as such i also modded the valve cover to take the bungs needed.
Now,the valvecover is out of magnesium and therefore not really an option to weld.
So what i did was to turn some inserts in the lathe that was interferance fit and pressed the whole thing together with pure old fashioned force and a BFH.
As there´s no real pressures involved..it´ll work.
As you can see i opted to drill the "little" one out too,and installed an AN10 in that position.
Idea is to run the AN10 the lenght of the cover and have both the AN10 and the AN12 exit in the same position for the breather box further down the road.
For the cooler lines i opted to get rid of the OEM very soft couplings and install AN12 there as well.
Point again being...i expect this motor to be pulled a time or two as things progress,and ease of service and maintenance is something we build into the project at this point.
Simply turned a set of flares for the OEM tubing for the cooler and reused the OEM steel lines and TIG welded it all back together.
Important is to be aware that the shutter angle of the AN stuff is 37deg.
Exhaust hedder then.
This is the raw material as delivered.
Expensive to say the least,as it is Inconel reinfored acid resistant stainless steel.
Material is BONE tough,and that means that cutting as well as forming it...yeah well...thank god i got a lathe standing around
This is the equally stainless exhaust flange for the head.
Watercut.
..and then the weldbungs for the hedder in place.
I formed these by turning a mandrel in the lathe out of aluminium so the end that it supposed to meet the pipe per se didn´t get disformed.
Then used some BRUTE force in a vise...
Turned out pretty good...but boys...don´t try this at home with regular hand tools with this material.You´re BOUND to get hurt.For real!
To go with the ideas of good total system flow we built in an antireversion step for the hedder to aid the exhaust pulses as they´ll be scavenging.
Point being that this intentional step will hinder the return pulse from reaching the exhaust valve undisturbed.
As the roof of the port is the most active part of it,this is where the mismatch is set to be the biggest.
von Racing » 9. Sep 2007, 22:04 
Freue mich schon auf den nächsten Skandinavien-Urlaub 
,if its possible for me to buy a cheap 16v i will bring it to you jesper!
