Eibach pro kit only at front with SLS at rear

[Marco]

Hi guys

I tried to search if this was discussed but considering also my limitation due to language I think there was nothing.

Have anyone with normal 2.3 or 2.5 16 installed lowering spring from Eibach at front? Any experience in terms of comfort and dinamic of drive with SLS at rear?

Basically I like SLS and also car hight at rear is very fine (I’ve to solve a difference rear right vs rear left with 1,5cm of difference …) but at front factory sportline setup is like a SUV: 35-35cm from fender to center wheel and I’ve rubber pad n.1 so the thinnest.
I bought Eibach Pro kit, which I discovered is not progressive but linear, and I’ll put rubber pad n2 at front because I don’t want to go too low, like 2-3 cm.

I like how the car ride and I don’t go on track.

Any experience and suggestions ?


Thanks

[Marco]

Hi Guys
Really none installed Eibach springs here?
Thanks for any other tips/suggestion for a comfortable ride like stock

[Marco]

I’m not sure if this may interest someone but in case: with this pro kit at front it was quite lower than factory…factory with pad 1 was 35/36cm (wheel center to fender) with Eibach I tested pad 2 and ended with pad 3, still quite low: 32/33 cm.
I’m wondering to put pad 4 to gain some 0,5cm…
Any comment would be appreciated
But at least the ride comfort is not compromised I can’t feel a harsher ride compared with factory springs so the balance with rear SLS is in my opinion fine

[Woggle]

Hi Marco, have the same problem with Eibach pro kit. Have right now pad no 3, but will change to H&R Gruppe G.
For daily use, the Eibach is fine (my sugesstion).

[Marco]

Hi Woggle
Thanks for your post, but if I do understand well you want even a lower ride, H&R usually lowers more than Eibach.
I’m really happy with Eibach how it rides for street use.
By the way I informed Eibach that in the international site (in English) they wrongly described the springs as “progressive” which they are not, so they fixed, but the German site was already correct so you guys probably never realised any wrong info.
Best
Marco

[shaq]

Hi Marco,

I would recommend factory Sportline springs at front axis, as they are made of special steel with progressive line of compression and are sporty yet bit shorter then 2.3 16 springs

Those springs I think was factory fitted to 2.5 16s

Eibach, H&R I dont know but they never suited what I wanted from car

There is three hardness of them, depending on how much additional equipment you have on the car (air conditioning, sun roof etc.)

Blue line one yellow strip (mostly on 1.8 or 2.0 without AC)
Blue line two yellow strip (recommended for 2.0 with AC and 16v without AC)
Blue line three yellow strip (mostly on heavy cars like 2.6 or 2.5 Turbo D)

Then with those springs you can start at Gummis with 2 marks and than decide is it OK for you or not.

WARNING very important is to let all the screws in lowers arm loose after changing springs because they will not let car come down to natural height of new springs

Move car few hunderd meters and then re-tighten. Before loosing screws mark positions with white marker and bring them back in same wheel angle, its very important.

Bye,
Nikola.

[Marco]

Hi Nikola is very interested what you are now telling me, especially the recommendation on the lower arm screws…unfortunately I’ve done this job…and I have a collection of all the rubber spring pads at home, I can’t say I’m not happy with Eibach at front and pad number 4.
I’d not have thought that sportline springs were lower than factory 2.3-16 springs at front.

By the way, do you recommend any action now? To loose the front lower arm screws and retighten? I’ve done already 800km my concern based on your post is to have twisted the ball joints rubber at front now that car sit 2 cm lower at front…

By the way next week I’ll change rear lower control arm bushings (the one at the wheel hub) because one is totally destroyed and yes I’ve been told to tighten at 120Nm only with car back at the ground (can I ride the arm with a jack lifter to do when in air I suppose)

Thanks
Marco

[shaq]

Hi Marco,

2.3 16 has longer front springs than 2.5 16 or Sportline models. Maybe because 2.3 16 was planned as Rally car and I also dont like it how it is from factory.

I know this because I changed those springs few times from 2.3 16. Sportline are the best out there, and caps with 4 (the thickest) is not the way to go. It is good sign that spring needs to be longer as short spring will not be able to hold in critical situation which can bump your car unexpectedly sideways into making an accident. 1 or 2 Cap must be with correct spring. It is from my experience!

I am now at ski holidays so dont have Part No with me of sportline but I remeber that if not corroded you can identify them with blue mark and two yellow dots: (in this picture I have only the wrong ones with 3 yellow stripes it is from 2.6 Sportline)



About Gummis dont worry they survive 800km with wrong adjustment - just lose them now and re-tighten and always make it on ground not in air even with jacks

Take care about oval srews to bring them EXACTLY how it was or even better take your car after you are happy with drive height to get Laser adjusted front wheels

It is not just not to kill them but also when tightened at wrong position, they negatively affect your ride because they need to work both ways up and down as you drive with same force.

Bye,
Nikola.

[Marco]

Hi Nikola I much appreciate your recommendations especially considering you are now skiing:)
So about sportline springs additional info well noted, so 2.5 was lower from 2.3.

I have troubles posting my reply I think I have to post separately my reply …

Thanks
Marco

[Marco]

About front suspension arm yes I’ll mark the eccentric to put at same position but I confirm that I planned already to check alignment when I complete these tasks, on Monday I planned the mechanic to also dismount gearbox to replace gearbox primarily shaft seal which is marking my garage since I bought the car…I’ll annoy the mechanic usually we do these jobs together but I’ve a doubt on the torque specification see attached where is taken from same chapter…which is the correct torque setting, 120 or 180 Nm …

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[Marco]

Few words on the rear axle: I extended the SLS rod to reduce the car height, I know that over a limit it will not reduce because the SLS valve has a limit to avoid to discharge the two hydraulic struts: I started increasing 1cm but i noticed that it was not returning to the neutral position (where the pin can enter the hole in the valve) so I have reduce to 0,7cm I’ll see if is fine, I like the car flat or even slightly lower at rear as it was before.


A lot of small thinks to do and not much time

Thanks for any further info and sorry for the mess but I received error messages posting a unique message…

Thanks
Marco

[shaq]

Hi Marco,

I think 120Nm is very low torque. WIth this torque only wheels are fastened.

Go at least for 180Nm or by feeling that bolt in question is fastened enough.

Most mechanics don't use Torque wrench, they do it using experience and feeling in their hands. 180Nm is written if some amateurs try to do the job alone in my opinion

Nikola.

[Marco]

Thanks Nikola for your valuable feedback based also on experienced mechanics practise.
It’s worth to mention that rear suspensions arm has 70Nm internal an 120Nm on the bushing at wheel carrier, the bushing I’m gonna change tomorrow morning.
It’s nice to know on this regards that this bushing part number is still used in newer Mercedes like 204 and may be also W140.

[shaq]

Hi,

70Nm because it is made out of Plastic I suppose?

About Rear wheel Control Arms, when replacing them I suggest to use newer strengthened ones:

I colored it with orange, one had 3 additional welded pieces from inside that make it much stronger, another has similar thing but incorporated in the edges.

Evo1 Raumlenker.png

They debuted on EVO1 but later they were installed on various powerful variants like 300CE - 24 or 320E w124, w202 C36 AMG, w210 etc.

And I recommend it to everybody planning to drive cars with bigger wheels / tyres then factory 205-55 R15 because rear suspension becomes less spongy in corners

Nikola.

[Marco]

Hi Nikola
Very useful this info on the improved design of rear control arm!
Unfortunately I can’t move on 16” wheels as I’d like … just EVO1 wheels, no possibility here to change from factory 15”…but regardless of this I still like the idea to have the reinforced arm.
Attached the pictures: one is the so called pushing strut, it has just a plastic cover the other photo is the so called track rod and it looks like the new design all in metal, is this the reinforced type from what you can understand?
Thanks !
Marco

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