News
Verfasst: 6. Jan 2007, 17:32As you guys know by now i´m more or less into a love affair with the 16V.
Well..in my efforts to go faster i also conclude what needs to be changed within the little engine-as the need arises.
So far then;
New connecting rods(pleuels) made out of swedish tool room steel are in the works.
Reason for not going more exotic materials is of course to keep within the "street" idea of the concept.
No idea what these will take as far as power,but i wouldn´t be surprised if we´ve doubled the stock numbers of the early rods.(IOW 8-900PS)
Valves.
This has been an area of interest to say the least.
Point here is that back in the 80s a lot of engines got sodium filled exhaust valve stems.The thing is...they´re normally still two piece valves(which is bad from a longevity and load standpoint),and they´re expensive as hell to boot.
Likewise...i can´t really see the need for an 8mm valve stem-again seing the progress made by the industry in materials.
So...
The quest for a LIGHTER,CHEAPER and more TOLERANT exhaust valve began.
Turns out...that stainless valves of the corrent lenght and valve diameter as well as stem diameter was already in existance....which is the "tuner" valves in stainless for the 16V volvo.
Only that...you use the intake valve and cut the valve diameter down a little(1mm) in a valve and cut new keeper grooves..
If need be,and economy if of SERIOUS concern another valve that can be used is the OEM valve for the peugeot 206.
Main concern when i´ve looked around has been that most engines have way to SHORT valve stems to be able to convert them to our engines.
Peugeot valves are approx 1/8 in cost of the stock valve!!!!!
So...what does it take?
Well...not much to be honest.
As one now uses 7mm stems on both intake and exhaust..we simply install the intake valve guides in all 16 holes and use 16 intake valve stem seals to boot.
There after...one simply overhauls the head per normal.
Apart from cost savings,what benefits?
Several really...
Weight...
The 7mm exhaust valves in question are considerably lighter than the stock ones.This will REDUCE load on both the valve per se,the valve spring and the seat.
Has a number of advantages.
For instance...valve springs will last longer.
You will be able to rev higher without spring oscillation(valve float)
You will be able to go longe between head overhauls.
Which...in turn brings us to the next topic-which is the valve spring retainers.
These are normally cut out of titanium on race engines.
However...titanium is expensive-as hell.
So..altho i´m going to have a couple of sets cut for my own engine out of titanium,we settled for a VERY good quality forged aluminium for the more "average" engines.Aluminium is called "Alumek" and can be speced at; Uddeholm
Alumek does NOT carry the typical drawbacks of regular aluminium-one of the foremost being that aluminium "work hardens" over time.
This MIGHT lead to retainers breaking-which Alumek WILL NOT.
Advantage,and general concept of using this material-again...is to keep valve weight down.See above.
Pistons then.
Well...
I´ve settled for the forged Mahles that were delivered stock for the Volvo B23E engine.
Why?
Again...
1/Cost.These slugs are approx 1/4 of the cost of the stock mercedes 16Vs.
Yes,they will need to be modified a bit when it comes to valve cutouts and so forth...but the cutting time is minimal.
2/I want to retain the concept of a HEAVY 24mm piston pin.Reason is that this is a streetmotor,and high end turbo engines put a tremendous amount of stress on the piston pin per se.
3/They are readily available-off the shelf.
4/The stock bore of the B23 is half a mm more than the 102.983 engine.
That means that there are pistons available as far as your heart desires when it comes to overbore if need be.
Well..in my efforts to go faster i also conclude what needs to be changed within the little engine-as the need arises.
So far then;
New connecting rods(pleuels) made out of swedish tool room steel are in the works.
Reason for not going more exotic materials is of course to keep within the "street" idea of the concept.
No idea what these will take as far as power,but i wouldn´t be surprised if we´ve doubled the stock numbers of the early rods.(IOW 8-900PS)
Valves.
This has been an area of interest to say the least.
Point here is that back in the 80s a lot of engines got sodium filled exhaust valve stems.The thing is...they´re normally still two piece valves(which is bad from a longevity and load standpoint),and they´re expensive as hell to boot.
Likewise...i can´t really see the need for an 8mm valve stem-again seing the progress made by the industry in materials.
So...
The quest for a LIGHTER,CHEAPER and more TOLERANT exhaust valve began.
Turns out...that stainless valves of the corrent lenght and valve diameter as well as stem diameter was already in existance....which is the "tuner" valves in stainless for the 16V volvo.
Only that...you use the intake valve and cut the valve diameter down a little(1mm) in a valve and cut new keeper grooves..
If need be,and economy if of SERIOUS concern another valve that can be used is the OEM valve for the peugeot 206.
Main concern when i´ve looked around has been that most engines have way to SHORT valve stems to be able to convert them to our engines.
Peugeot valves are approx 1/8 in cost of the stock valve!!!!!
So...what does it take?
Well...not much to be honest.
As one now uses 7mm stems on both intake and exhaust..we simply install the intake valve guides in all 16 holes and use 16 intake valve stem seals to boot.
There after...one simply overhauls the head per normal.
Apart from cost savings,what benefits?
Several really...
Weight...
The 7mm exhaust valves in question are considerably lighter than the stock ones.This will REDUCE load on both the valve per se,the valve spring and the seat.
Has a number of advantages.
For instance...valve springs will last longer.
You will be able to rev higher without spring oscillation(valve float)
You will be able to go longe between head overhauls.
Which...in turn brings us to the next topic-which is the valve spring retainers.
These are normally cut out of titanium on race engines.
However...titanium is expensive-as hell.
So..altho i´m going to have a couple of sets cut for my own engine out of titanium,we settled for a VERY good quality forged aluminium for the more "average" engines.Aluminium is called "Alumek" and can be speced at; Uddeholm
Alumek does NOT carry the typical drawbacks of regular aluminium-one of the foremost being that aluminium "work hardens" over time.
This MIGHT lead to retainers breaking-which Alumek WILL NOT.
Advantage,and general concept of using this material-again...is to keep valve weight down.See above.
Pistons then.
Well...
I´ve settled for the forged Mahles that were delivered stock for the Volvo B23E engine.
Why?
Again...
1/Cost.These slugs are approx 1/4 of the cost of the stock mercedes 16Vs.
Yes,they will need to be modified a bit when it comes to valve cutouts and so forth...but the cutting time is minimal.
2/I want to retain the concept of a HEAVY 24mm piston pin.Reason is that this is a streetmotor,and high end turbo engines put a tremendous amount of stress on the piston pin per se.
3/They are readily available-off the shelf.
4/The stock bore of the B23 is half a mm more than the 102.983 engine.
That means that there are pistons available as far as your heart desires when it comes to overbore if need be.
die du uns aufzeigst.
.
, du bist einer der Jungs die wirklich viel Ahnung haben und sich nicht zu schade sind dieses Wissen mit anderen zu teilen 
auf den Jesper 